Kato Melpia, perched at the foot of Mount Tetrazio, overlooks the northern part of the Messinian olive grove and the lands of historic Andania. It is an area of unparalleled natural beauty, which inspired Euripides' eloquent description of it in the surviving extract from the lost tragedy 'Cresphontes':
"A thousand waters, dewy, watering it, and grass in abundance shall the oxen, the shepherds find upon the beautiful country, which is not frozen in winter by the winds, nor burned by the warm rays of the sun. Words can’t describe her beauty nor her virtues."
The village is located 40 km north of Kalamata and 15 km from Meligalas, a smooth 40-minute drive. We suggest a short stop in Zeugolateio to taste the authentic pasteli delicacy! Continuing west and north after Diavolitsi and following the provincial road of Messina - Temple of Epikourios Apollo through lush olive groves, we reach our destination.
Entering the village with the traditional stone-built houses, we are welcomed by the Holy Church of Evangelistria. Plane trees and mulberry trees complete the beautiful picture, while a stone fountain demonstrates the water wealth of the area. You’re advised to park your car and continue on foot. First surprise, at the northern edge of the village and just a stone through away from the cemetery, we come across the Koube fountains; a fairytale place, ideal for a picnic, full of streams and ancient plane trees that cool and protect visitors with their shade, to the sound of frogs, cicadas and birds.
A deep gorge leads to the fountains, at the top of which lay the ruins of the Frankish castle of Grebeni. A castle with a panoramic view of the entire Stenyklaro Field as far as Ithomi. Engraved paths lead to the castle and the waterfalls. A wide dirt uphill through low vegetation and scents of sage and thyme, takes us to the Koutentou waterfalls. A few minutes later, a sign informs that we’re approaching. Behind the song of the cicadas, the sound of water hammering the rock is faintly discernible. Treading carefully through the bed of the stream, we reach a waterfall of about twenty meters.
Don't miss the opportunity to cool off in its cold waters! Back on the trail and continuing northeast, through the overgrown stream, we reach the Perivolaki Lakes, with some smaller but equally beautiful waterfalls that are worth seeing.
Kato Melpia is a magical destination for any traveller who wishes to be introduced to a particularly beautiful and relatively unexplored aspect of Messinia!